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Everything posted by zines

  1. Try downloading Winrar from http://www.rarlab.com.
  2. zines

    Microsoft Excel Error

    It's really hard to say. I would need to know more about the file. Did you create it from scratch or someone else? If someone else created it then I would talk to that person. If you created it then you should be able to answer these questions. Is the spreadsheet linked to other spreadsheets either by formulas or VBA? If the first answer is yes, then has any of those spreadsheets been moved, deleted, or renamed? If they have then the errors are caused because it can't find the needed files to complete its calculations or inputs. If the answers to the previous questions are both no, then has the spreadsheet itself been moved or renamed, or any of the sheets within the spreadsheet? There could be either a hard coded formula or VBA pointing to something specific in the spreadsheet and when it was renamed it would fail to update the code accordingly, causing errors. In this case change the names back exactly. If you deleted a sheet, then you have bigger problems. There could be a specific object within the spreadsheet that used to be there that somehow got deleted and now the spreadsheet can't find it. This would be some object created by the person creating the spreadsheet. Did you change anything with the software itself, such as upgrade Excel or Office, or apply any patches or updates? If so undo what you did. Microsoft often automatically pushes updates through, depending on windows settings. The last thing you can try is to open the file on another computer. If it works on another computer than the installation on your computer is corrupt. You can try to do a repair of office or even uninstall/reinstall it.
  3. I would need to know more information. Did you create this file or did you get it from someone else? If you got it from someone else it was probably created in a newer version and you might not be able to view it. There are compatibility tools that you can try to download from Microsoft's website, but it still might not work. If you created it and you absolutely know that it was created in 2003 then try to do a repair on office. In the link below, follow the section that tells you how to do a repair. One thing it doesn't tell you is to first close out of all applications and then open an office application that you aren't having an issue with, then follow the steps. Like since you are having an issue with Word, open Excel instead and use that. http://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/821593 If that doesn't work try to uninstall office and install it back. If that doesn't work try to send it to someone who has a newer version to see if they can open it. One last thing you can try, but it will remove all formatting in the document, is to open notepad and then drag the file into the blank opened notepad template. This might allow you to copy some of the text to allow you to start over. If none of that works, then the file is too corrupt and you can't open it at all. That's why you should always make a backup of all important files each time you update them. It also would help top know what the file extension is so I know that it is indeed a Word file that you are trying to open and not a file for some other application. If this helps please mark it as the answer.
  4. zines

    Secondary outlook account issue

    By the way, any time you go to a new computer, you will need to make all the changes I suggested. Each person will also need to make it. So even if you share computers, when a person uses the same computer they will need to make these changes again. Although, once you make the changes you don't have to make them again on that particular computer.
  5. zines

    Secondary outlook account issue

    Yes, that is the issue with older versions of Outlook. I don't think this was fixed until Outlook 2010, I am fairly certain it will not work in 2007. Where you added the exchange server, shows your email address and where you unchecked the cached mode, right before you double click on the account you should have a listing for each mailbox here. If you only have one listed here, then you added it the old way by adding the new/second account under your own account. If you can add more than one account, there should be a "New" button, like I have 4 email accounts under mine. You will also need to remove the new/added mailbox if it is under your account. I don't remember if 2007 can do this or not, I know for sure before 2007 you couldn't do that. This was fixed in 2010.
  6. Honestly, I don’t know much about repeaters, I know they do have them. I also have a Netgear router. In the advanced options for the Netgear there are options to setup a repeater. What this should be able to do is you can get another WIFI router (I think), unless you just need an access point. But you can place this access point in another part of the house and it will duplicate the signal being sent to and from your router, thus giving you twice the distance than what you had before. Another option, if possible, would be to run a LAN cable from the Internet connection (modem) and place your Netgear router more in a central location. This would be less convenient because then your modem and router wouldn’t be together, but it would give you a better and more reliable signal for all devices, instead of having to install another piece of equipment.
  7. zines

    Secondary outlook account issue

    It might be how you added the multiple accounts. It could also be due to an option you have selected. Check to make sure you don’t have the option “Use Cached Exchange Mode” checked. I am not sure where it is under Outlook 2007 as I am using 2010, but it should be similar. In 2010 under the File menu, click on Account Settings, and select Account Settings from the dropdown. This is the same place you go to add a new email account within Outlook. Where it lists your email addresses, double click on it and then remove the checkmark from the “Use Cached Exchange Mode”. You will need to do this for each email address listed here. Once the checkmark has been removed from all accounts, close out of Outlook and reopen it. Now try to do what you need to do. This cache mode option makes files and folder appear to be there when they aren’t and by default it is on. This causes issues if you are sharing email accounts amongst multiple users. If this works please mark it as the answer and vote it up.
  8. The best option would probably be to get a Roku 3 box. This is the newer out of the Roku boxes and my friend said the remote control has a plug in it for a headphone set, exactly like what you are asking for. Another option, which would be a lot more expensive is to get a audio video receiver that supports blue tooth headphone sets. Then you will also need to buy a head phone set that supports blue tooth. I think there is an option that will allow you to plug in a blue tooth headset directly into your TV, depending on your TV's features, if not you might be able to get a dongle that will pair up with the headset that you can plug into the TV. Probably not a cheap option either.
  9. If everything looks good from that perspective then read what I posted here:http://answers.groovypost.com/questions/2789/reestablishing-wi-fi-connection The question for that post was in regards to a laptop and a WIFI connection, which I am guessing you are using a wired desktop. If that is the case then just ignore the part about looking for a WIFI switch on your computer, but the rest of the process will be the same.
  10. Well, torrents download, or anything downloaded off the Internet could cause issues. People can plant viruses in anything that you download, even if antivirus doesn't detect it. The good programmers can even make the virus destroy your hardware. Since these are illegal software that you have, Microsoft could be messing with you, as you put it, but unlikely if your software is registered. You can tell if it is registered by holding down the Windows button on the keyboard and then pressing the Pause Break button. A window will open and at the bottom it will say something about Windows being active. If it says this then you are registered, otherwise there will still be an option requesting that you register. If you aren't registered then that could be an issue.
  11. First off, take it from me, someone who also writes a lot. When you post questions this long and have a tendency to babble on, people stop reading. I am saying this because I sometimes have the same problem. With that said, I skimmed trough your question. From what I gathered I had the same issue at one point, other than I was unable to connect to the internet at all. All my virus software I had, which was 3, didn’t detect anything. What I did was roll my computer back to a previous date of when it was working. Windows 8.1 automatically has restore points that you can revert to when you run into issues like this. This concept has been around since windows XP, but wasn’t efficient in XP. It became efficient in Vista, as much as that OS sucked. Anyway, I would suggest restoring your computer to a date of when it was working. Also if your computer is as old as what I am thinking, since you were running windows XP on it, a lot of your hardware might not be compatible with Windows 8.1. I was running Vista on my computer and upgraded to 8.1, I got everything to work, but certain drivers weren’t compatible with 8.1 and even the manufacturers like Intel said so when I quested them. So my computer sounds newer than yours based on that, so you might have more issues than I did to get your computer working on 8.1. I figured ways around it, but that will be something you will have to experiment with if you are having driver installation problems. Well good luck and I hope this helps. By the way, I really like 8.1, especially after I installed Classic Shell so it boots right to the desktop, getting rid of that annoying tile screen. If this does help please vote it up and possibly even mark it as the answer.
  12. If you really don’t plan on using the printer for a while the best thing you can do is take the ink cartridges out of it. The problem with printers, as I am sure you know, is that the ink will harden on the printer’s headers. The headers are where the ink comes out of. Once that happens then it is junk. The ink also will dry up within the cartridge itself if not used enough. The good thing about HP printers, which is what I have as well, is that the headers are on the ink cartridges themselves, so when they dry up you can just replace the ink cartridges and by doing so you also replace the header. Now on Epson printers the headers are on the printer themselves and can’t be replaced, so when they dry up from not using it enough, you have to throw the entire printer out and get a new one. A good friend of mine who is a professional in the graphics industry prefers Epson because they print in a higher image quality. I hate Epson because of how their headers are. My first two printers were Epson and had to throw them out because of the lack of use. I have been using HP since. Something you can try to do if the ink cartridge is not working because it was sitting for a while, is to take a Q-Tip, dip it in rubbing alcohol and wipe it across the metal part of the ink cartridge, where the ink comes out, to clean it. I have done this many times when the ink stopped working and that helped. As far as purging printer lines, you can’t do anything like that. All you can do is the methods I mentioned. Then once you start using it again, there should be an option somewhere under your printer settings to clean the printer. What this does is it tries to clean the headers on the cartridges and the lines when something is printed. There is also a test page that can be run after that. Both use a fair amount of ink, but it does help if your stuff isn’t printing correctly. On a side note, I never take my ink cartridges out of my printer. I leave them sit in there and I often don’t print anything for several months. I just try the methods I described when I need to print something and it isn’t working, rubbing alcohol on it, etc. If this helps please vote it up and possibly mark it as an answer.
  13. I'm not sure how the 4 bay one works that you are questioning, but the individual one is what I have. This takes up a bay in the computer, so I have 2 DVD drives and then 3 of these removable bays in the front of my computer. These hook up to the board using SATA connectors, just like you would hook up any other hard drive. Then the hard drive slides in and out, it automatically lines up with the removable bay connectors that are inside and there is nothing further you have to do. They also have ATA removable ones, but I doubt you are using anything that old. As far as a Mac goes, I don't see why it wouldn't work. A Mac uses the same type of connectors, SATA, so it should work, as long as you have the bay room in the front of the computer. I actually thought I saw that they had a solid state drive removable too, if you are using one of those. I don't know much about the WD Cloud Sever, but isn't that a yearly or monthly charge? These things you buy once and you aren't charged again, so from that standpoint wouldn't that be cheaper than a recurring charge every month or year? The individual bays are only about $20 after shipping, which isn't bad. I've had my removables for at least four years now. I think I might actually be pushing six years. My computer is getting old, but I spent a lot on it when I first got it and it's still fast. That was what I was hoping for, so I didn't have to be one of those people that buys a new one every other year. Kingwin, the company that makes the removable drive bays seems like a good company. When I first got my computer (custom built) one of the bays went bad after a month. I called and requested an RMA, sent mine in and they gave me a new one, customer service was good. I actually ended up receiving two new ones instead of just one, so now I have a spare, lol. Not sure why they sent me two, but that's OK. After all these years they are working fine. Now on the other hand I have dealt with NAS stuff many times at work. I understand that each company is going to be different, but I'm sure the process will be similar. If a hard drive fails in a NAS, which seems to happen a lot, they want you to try all this different stuff to try to get it to work. They are trying to determine if it is the NAS box or the drive. Not only do the NAS drives fail a lot, the entire box fails. Then when something happens you have to create dump files, send them attachments, do several other things, just for them to check to se if they will replace it or not. It is a long process that takes days and sometimes weeks before they finally even ship something out to you, then you have to wait to get it. That one issue took over a month to resolve, way too long in my opinion. I also don't know who actually owns the drives themselves at work, if the NAS company does or we do, from what I gather I am fairly certain the NAS company does because often when a drive is bad and still under warrantee they will send out a new drive. Communication responses are very slow as well and often confusing as they miss or respond back with something unrelated. I'm just not impressed, but like I said, maybe another company would be better and the products more reliable. I would also prefer to reframe from saying which company this is. If I dealt with them personally for my personal home stuff, I wouldn't have a problem listing them, but since it is work, well I would rather not list their name, even though they have nothing to do with our company other than we contract or buy the NAS boxes through them. We have their equipment all over the USA and several other countries as well, so yeah, I deal with this a fair amount. Something else that often happens with NAS stuff when one drive bay goes bad in the NAS and it can no longer read a drive. Since the NAS is basically a box, they have to replace the whole NAS box instead of replacing that one drive bay. I don't know, I'm just not impressed with NAS at all. Don't get me wrong, I think the concept is very excellent, I just don't like the reliability and customer service for them. If you find this information helpful at all, please vote the answer up, or even mark it as the solution as well (if you like it and it works for you).
  14. Have you thought about installing removable hard drives in your computer? I have that. Once the computer is shut down it takes literally a second to pop the drives out. NAS devices are unreliable. I work for a large corporation and they have lots off issues, not the best solution if you ask me, plus a NAS box isn't easy to move/hide like what you are trying to do, unless you pop the drives out as well. Anyway, I use removable drives at home and it works great. Here is what I am talking about, depending on what you get you can either get a tray or no tray. The tray would protect the drive when you pop it out. Each drive would need its own tray, unless you swap the drive out within the tray. Below is a listing of all the different removable options. http://kingwin.com/products/racktray_line.asp Here is what I currently am using, no tray needed. You open the door and the hard drive slides out, you can slide in a new drive to replace or put the same one back in. This is very effective and eliminates the need to open the case up when you need to replace a drive. http://kingwin.com/products/cate/mobile/racks/kf_1000_bk.php Those are some ideas. I hope it helps.
  15. Hi Simon, interesting. I didn't know they made them this small. At work we have large ones, like the size of a walk in closet. I can't imagine what those cost. But yeah, like you said, it wouldn't be very cost effective if I got this. Although something like this is what I was looking for, I just didn't think it would be this expensive. I guess the best bet would be to get something like what APC suggested. I was hoping to get away from another battery operated device, where I had to replace another battery, but replacing the battery many times wouldn't come to the price of this item. The battery should last three years as well before needing to be replaced. Thanks for the post.
  16. I don’t think this is at all possible to do, but curious if anyone else would have some insight on this. Is there some sort of device that can connect wall or a surge suppressor power with that of a Uninterruptable Power Supply (UPS) and then you can plug your cable modem and router into that device? OK, I know this sounds dumb, so let me explain why I want to do this. I was working at home over the Internet when the power flickered, enough for me to lose my Internet connection since both my router and modem were plugged into a surge suppressor. The power did this a couple of times that day. Eventually I plugged the router and modem into the UPS to prevent my Internet from dropping. The problem now is that I always turn off my UPS when I’m not using my computer, which of course disconnects the Internet since it is plugged into the UPS that I shut down. This prevents me from using my other devices that need the Internet as well. I don’t like leaving the UPS on constantly, because I might not use the computer for several days. So if there is some device that would plug into the surge suppressor and plug into the UPS, then if I could plug both my router and modem into this device, it would prevent me from losing Internet connection. If I am on my computer and the power cuts out, the power will automatically pull from the UPS. If I shut the UPS off the device would automatically pull its power from the surge suppressor. I don’t think there is anything out there like this, but if there is I was curious if someone could point me to the right direction. Thanks for any suggestions.
  17. Just so I don't get suggestions on some other battery device, here is actually what APC suggested: http://www.apc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BGE70&ISOCountryCode=us&tab=features I just figured if the power was out and I didn't have my computer on, the Internet wouldn't do my any good anyway, so there would be no need for a battery, and no need for the extra expense in replacing the battery. So I would prefer not to get another device that has a battery that needs to be replaced at some point.
  18. I am sure you are aware of this, but most laptops have a switch somewhere on it that will turn on and off the WIFI connection to it, your switch might be off. I am sure you are aware of this, but double check to make sure it is not off. It is usually on the side of the laptop. If that is not the issue, then I am guessing you have already tried this, but if not, unplug the power cord from your modem and your router (if your router is separate from the modem). Plug in the router first and then plug in the modem next. DO NOT press the reset button (if either your modem or router have one), as this will reset everything to factory settings. It might take about 5 minutes for it to reconnect. If this doesn’t work, try this. Open up a command prompt (go to the start menu of windows, click on run, and type in CMD, press enter). Then in command prompt window type this in: Ipconfig /release Ipconfig /renew The release option will release any preexisting configuration for the IP address and then the renew will refresh it. If it still doesn’t work then you might have to restart the computer after this. If restarting your computer doesn’t work then you might need to go into network settings on your computer and play with the IPV4 settings. Hard to tell you exactly what to do here, it all depends on the OS you are using and exactly how your network is setup (static VS dynamic IP). You shouldn’t have to get a new wireless adapter, it is more than likely something else that is causing issues. Some other things you can try are to take an Ethernet cable and plug it directly into the router from the laptop. If that doesn’t work then there might be something wrong with the router. You might need to power cycle everything again when you do this, including the laptop. If that still doesn’t work then remove the router and plug your laptop directly into the modem, power cycle everything again. If this doesn’t work, then there for sure is an issue with your Internet service provider, which you will need to call. If plugging it directly into the modem works, then there for sure is something wrong with the router and you will need to check the settings on the router or your router is dead, more than likely it would be a settings issue though. When plugging directly into the router or the modem I would suggest turning the WIFI switch off on the laptop. There should be no reason to buy a new adapter. I hope this helps, if it does please vote it up.
  19. zines

    Antivirus software

    I agree with what jshepp said, that if you are extremely careful you really don’t need one. However, most people download something at some point or go to a questionable site. A questionable site could be something as simple as searching for a deal on something you want to buy and you click on a search result link from the listed results. I think most people who have the Internet do something similar to this at some point. I have used a number of software over the years, from AVG, Norton, Kaspersky, and several others. I think Norton is the best in my opinion. They all do have their advantages and disadvantages over the other, but it seems Norton has worked the best. As jshepp said, running multiple antivirus software at the same time on the computer will cause issues with the other. What I do is run Norton 360 in the background all the time on my computer, this is the paid for version, has firewall and virus protection. I do have a router as well for a firewall, but it doesn’t hurt to have both a hardware and a software firewall. Then I also have “Ad-Aware Antivirus”, this used to be called Lavasoft and it is free. I also have “Spybot – Search & Destroy” installed, which is also free. I don’t run the free ones all the time. What I do is once a month I scan my computer with Norton. Once that is done I then scan it with Ad-Aware, and then once that is done I scan it with Spybot. The combination of these three work really well. You can scan your computer more often, such as once a week if you feel the need. I usually scan before I pay for something or pay my credit card bills. I hope this helps and if it does please vote this answer up.
  20. Also, I am not sure what this is for the description for your mouse "1600/800 DPI resolution switch button quickly changes resolution without using mouse management software". I copied that from the website, I never heard of a switch like this on a mouse. I know what DPI is, but the switch is odd. Did you try to flip the switch as well? This idea sounds dumb to me and has no logic at all, but maybe your monitor needs to be a certain resolution for the mouse to properly work. Like I said, that is farfetched and sounds dumb, but it might be worth a shot. Anyway, as I previously mentioned, I would contact the company.
  21. I am sure you already tried the on/off switch. Typically if the device is on, there will be some light to show it’s on, usually red or blue on the USB device. Being that it’s optical there should also be a light on the bottom of the mouse when it is on. If the mouse doesn't have a light on it, then the mouse is off, the batteries are dead, or the mouse itself is defective. If there is no light, try to replace the batteries. I assume you already know all of this though. The last thing to do then is to write to the company. They do have a page on their website to contact them. I guess contacting them would have been the first thing I would have done if the product wasn't working. Tell them your issue and ask for help, a replacement, or a refund.
  22. It says no pairing needed, but there has to be something done in order to sync up to the USB adapter/dongle to the mouse itself, I have never seen a wireless mouse that didn’t require pairing of some sort with the dongle. Usually there is a button or something on the USB dongle that you have to push, then on the bottom of the mouse there is typically a button you need to push in with a pin/needle for a second or two. Think about it logically, if there wasn’t some sort of pairing and you had two of these mice for two different computers in the same room, how would you prevent mouse A from accidently controlling computer B? You wouldn’t, mouse A would be controlling both computer A & B at the same time, just as mouse B would be controlling computer A & B at the same time. You wouldn’t be able to work because the two mice would constantly be in conflict with each other. So there has to be some sort of pairing in order for it to correctly recognize the proper dongle. If there isn’t some sort of pairing, it is a bad product and I would see about getting your money back.
  23. Did the mouse come with a CD with drivers on it? If so, you need to install them. If not, go to the webpage that makes your mouse. Find the drivers and install them.
  24. Hello, I have asked this question at a couple of other places and nobody has been able to come up with a solution. Before asking this question I already believed there wasn’t a solution to this, but I will try it again to see if someone should happen to have a solution for this. In Excel when you copy a cell the border starts moving/flashing. Only when that border is moving you are allowed to paste its contents into another cell. Once the border is no longer moving, you are also unable to paste its contents. The other option is to double click on the cell or go into the formula bar to manually copy the data, which then you can paste as much as you want, at least until something else is copied. Here is my problem. I have VB script within the “Private Sub Worksheet_SelectionChange(ByVal Target As Range)” section of my worksheet. So every time another cell is selected this script is run. The script works perfectly and I do not need this changed. The spreadsheet first needs to be unlocked before the script can run, so I had to put this at the top of the script “ActiveSheet.Unprotect” and this at the bottom “ActiveSheet.Protect”. When I select a different cell and the code hits either the unprotect or the protect commands, then the copied cell border is no longer flashing, so I can’t paste. Is there a script of some sort that I can use so it retains the copied data? The script should only run when a cell is copied. I also don’t want to use the SendKeys function because that typically causes more issues then what it solves. I have always been wondering where Excel stores its data for copied cells, since usually copied data is stored in the windows clipboard, or some other dumping ground since Windows 7 & 8 no longer use the clipboard for copping data. So I don’t understand why Excel doesn’t use the same method as everything else when a cell is copied. Other information asked from the other sites: What is the code that I am using: The code that I am using can be found at the below link. It is the one with the green checkmark as the answer, the one that I wrote. Although, for the most part it is irrelevant to this issue, other than knowing that when it hits the unprotect line, that is when it removes the flashing borders of the copied cell. For this script you see here, the unprotect wouldn’t be needed, but due to the fact that there is a lot of code in other locations of this spreadsheet I had to put the unprotect in there due to the spreadsheet being protected. If I didn’t unprotect it here, then the script would error out because it isn’t able to make changes.http://stackoverflow.com/questions/17005931/excel-2010-vb-script-highlight-row-issue Clarification on how I am copying cells: Someone thought I had script to copy a cell from point A to point B. No, when I say copy I am just using the typical Ctrl + C on the keyboard. Due to the script activating as soon as another cell is selected, it prevents the copied cell from remaining active so I can never paste. This isn’t too major of an issue since cells are very rarely copied in this spreadsheet, but just knowing the fact that it doesn’t work is driving me crazy, I like things to fully work the way they are supposed to. I would greatly appreciate it if someone knows of a solution to this. Thanks, Chris
  25. zines

    Firefox - Flash crashes

    I would try to uninstall both flash and FF to see if that helps. After uninstalling them I would reboot the computer, probably unnecessary but it doesn't hurt, sometimes results are better depending on the application. Once the computer reboots first install FF and then install flash. On a side note, flash in general is an unstable program, it always has been, and so is java. FF always has had issues with flash. It’s possible that an update for flash was done and FF has issues with the update. The other thing I would recommend doing is scanning your computer for viruses to see if anything is affecting that. If you are allowed to use it at work, I would recommend downloading Spybot - Search & Destroy (Make sure you get the correct one, there are knock offs of this program out there that looks almost the same as the original, the original is free and works well). I would also recommend downloading Ad-Aware Antivirus (used to be called Lavasoft), which is also free. These two programs search more for spyware and trojan stuff more so than viruses, although they do check for viruses too. They do a better job at finding stuff over any virus program I have used and I have used many. When I scan my computer I first run Norton utilities, which is what I use for virus protection, then I run these two (one at a time). Make sure to do a full scan. I hope that helps, if it does, please vote this up.